I often stare at waves. Usually though I am staring beyond them in a spiritual way and pondering the eternity of waves compared with the transience of my existence. Or something like that.
Today I was sitting on the Malagueta beach watching the waves. And looking at them rather than beyond them. The waves were not hitting the shore straight on but at an angle of about 10 degrees. I watched a pebble just within reach of the waves. When a wave retreated the pebble was washed a couple of feet away from the shore. And when a wave broke, it was washed a couple of feet back toward the shore. But because of the angle of the wave, it was a few inches further along the beach. I believe that retreating waves are always at right angles to the shore - it is only the breaking waves that may not be straight at the shore. Anyway with the coming and going of each wave, this pebble moved inexorably a few inches further along the beach.
So where would it end up? Will it eventually get to Sitges? Might the Spanish pebble eventually become a French pebble? And from where will the pebble come which presumably will take its place?
Too many questions and no answers. But this must be another example of longshore drift, which I am reading about in school Geography blogs. And this is the phenomenon which gives rise to erosion and to spits.
But that´s enough for today. The sun is getting low and the local chiringuita is serving excellent Rioja. The waves will be here tomorrow. Hopefully, so will I.
Today I was sitting on the Malagueta beach watching the waves. And looking at them rather than beyond them. The waves were not hitting the shore straight on but at an angle of about 10 degrees. I watched a pebble just within reach of the waves. When a wave retreated the pebble was washed a couple of feet away from the shore. And when a wave broke, it was washed a couple of feet back toward the shore. But because of the angle of the wave, it was a few inches further along the beach. I believe that retreating waves are always at right angles to the shore - it is only the breaking waves that may not be straight at the shore. Anyway with the coming and going of each wave, this pebble moved inexorably a few inches further along the beach.
So where would it end up? Will it eventually get to Sitges? Might the Spanish pebble eventually become a French pebble? And from where will the pebble come which presumably will take its place?
Too many questions and no answers. But this must be another example of longshore drift, which I am reading about in school Geography blogs. And this is the phenomenon which gives rise to erosion and to spits.
But that´s enough for today. The sun is getting low and the local chiringuita is serving excellent Rioja. The waves will be here tomorrow. Hopefully, so will I.
